TV Diner Review
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PrimeTime Cape Cod Review — Tastes of the Cape
November 2009
The Marshside — The family dining is the same and the views are better than ever.
By Cheryl Kain
Down the road from Sesuit Harbor, the Sesuit Creek salt marsh is the backdrop for one of the most stunning and soothing restaurant views on Cape Cod. After the harvest moon, or during a storm, the grassy area that surrounds The Marshside looks like an ocean, complete with waves. At high tide, the boats come up and it appears that the harbor is at your doorstep. In summer, you can sit on the big front porch and enjoy the sunset. Inside at night, the lighting is soft, and the fireplace inviting.
There is so much sky here. Trees line the preimeter of the endless grassy marsh. You're sitting the in the middle of nature. I watch a blue heron take flight. One man counted 15 varieties of birds.
Gardens wer planted a year ago, and "everything is flourishing," says MarLou Robinson, a co-owner of this unique family restaurant since 1985. Pink flowers sit up high towards a window, while myriad species of fluttery grasses wave gracefully in the wind. Birds perch on three feeders hanging from a tree a mere 4 feet from the floor-to-ceiling window next to your table. The beams are exposed, and the indoor neutral palette of color doesn't compete with the spectacular landscape.
"It looks upscale, but it really isn't. It's a family restaurant and it always has been," says MaryLou, co-owner with her business partner, John Connors, of the 35-year-old restaurant. Connors comes from and advertising background in Boston. "He's a very giving person," she says. "Jack loves flowers. He's very interested in the environment, nature, and keeping things the way they should be. Our gardener, Mike, keeps everything looking wonderful. In April, you couldn't have gone to Holland and seen more beautiful tulips," she says.
In 2007, there were safety issues with the bridge over Sesuit Creek. Failed culverts, which allow water to pass underneath the bridge, needed to be fixed. Since the bridge renovation in 2008, within a year, the salt marsh was restored, enhancing Sesuit Creek's ecosystem. The restaurant underwent a complete rebuild and renovation. "We've built on the same footprints, we just made a better place. It was a cute little place before, but now, so many more people get to have a view," she says. "We had such a great place before, it was hard to create something new and be able to bring what we loved into the new facility. Lots of people put hard work and a lot of time into it."
It's a wonderful testament to how the federal, state and town can all unite, in this case to restore the salt marsh, address public safety concerns, and preserve the natural environment. It involved merging concerns about road safety, wetlands and wildlife conservation, and working with highway departments and homeowners' associations. "It's hard to get three government agencies together to have such a successful outcome. Everybody is a winner." MaryLou continues, "We had two fantastic builder/contratctors; Ron Ferioli and Rick Roy worked together and were in charge of the whole project," she says. The architectural contribution was by John McDonald Associates. "His whole vision was to make sure that the inside of The Marshside didn't compete with the outside." Beams came from Washington state, cherry wood gives warmth to the walls and booths are generously designed to be more roomy than most.
There is hardly any turnover in the staff, a rarity in the restaurant business. "Much of the staff has been here 15 or 20 years, most at least five years," says MaryLou. "We know each other's families; we grew up together." Three young women on the staff wore the same veil for their weddings. Each one passed it on to the other. "When you feel that way about each other, customers feel it," says MaryLou, who works seven days a week. "I never have a day I don't look forward to coming in."
Sister Barb Robinson is the manager. "She's the heart of The Marshside. She'll go talk with a customer and she won't come back for 10 minutes. You can't leave her here alone! She builds strong relationships."
There's a strong, loyal following, and many locals come in two to three times a week. You're never rushed here. There are toys for kids, and a special play area for long waits. There are even special booster seats for The Marshside's three American Girl dolls. "We love kids here," says MaryLou. "Everyone brings their kids, mothers and fathers, and grandchildren. We know so much about our customers. They're part of our family. A place isn't what you build, it's what you make. The people who work here and who eat here, make the place.
Despite the elegant beauty, the restaurant is casual. The menu is the same as before. There are chowders, stews, salads, and fresh seafood, all home-cooked. Everything is delivered fresh daily. "It's not gourmet," says MaryLou. Nothing is canned or frozen, and seasonings and salt are very light. Lots of folks come for the fresh fish; meatloaf and Chicken Pie are old favorites. They are adamant about using locally grown everything using small companies. Sid Wainer of New Bedford is a great resource.
The heavenly scent of baked bread wafts in from the bakery upstairs, where the rolls and desserts are made fresh every day. "We try and use family recipes," says MaryLou, referring to her recipe for hot fudge, and Jack's infamous brownie recipe, or the restaurant's Blueberry Shortcake. The new executive chef, James Jones, works together withthe old place's chef, Maui. "We needed some of the new and some of the old. It's a nice blend – neither takes over the other. We're really, really happy with the kitchen," she says.
"People know they're not going to be unknown here," says MaryLou. "Someone's going to come over and take care of you."
Perhaps MaryLou's friend, Joan Callahan, says it best. "I always say, you don't just serve food at The Marshside."